A meal at Ceviche will tell you everything you need to know about Peruvian food - it's delicious
Ceviche, Soho Review
Ceviche started with a Twitter account set up by Martin Morales. Many supper clubs and pop-ups later Ceviche opened it’s doors in Soho in February 2012 and is now one of London’s best restaurants. Their book even won Sunday Times cookbook of the year.
Antonia and I had tried (and loved) Ceviche before at Opera Tavern but didn’t know much about Peruvian food, still don’t really but Ceviche’s food and drinks boards on Pinterest really whet our appetite. It’s located on Frith Street in Soho, which must be one the best foodies streets in London with the likes of Koya, Arbutus, Barrafina and Chotto Matte just metres away.
There was a bustling atmosphere as we arrived with plenty of customers at the bar by the entrance and we were quickly shown through the main dining room. The room was alive with groups of friends chatting and eating, an invigorating place to be. We squeezed into our corner table and waited for a few minutes to be given a menu.
As you’d expect there are plenty of Ceviche options on the menu. Six in total, ranging from the traditional Don Ceviche (£8) of fresh sea bass in amarillo chilli tiger’s milk, limo chilli and red onions to Asian inspired versions like Sakura Maru (£7) made up of tiradito of thinly sliced salmon in Nikkei tiger’s milk made with satsumas, mirin, soy sauce and limo chilli. We had both and can highly recommend them! Light, fresh, zingy, delicious.
The Chicken Tequenos (£4.50) – wanton fritters filled with Chifa style chicken and vegetables, which were full of flavour and nice and crispy. We also ordered a couple of dishes from the grilled skewers (anticuchos) section of the menu – Pulpo y Chorizo (Octopus and Chorizo) Skewers (£11), which was probably my favourite dish of the evening. Flame grilled chorizo, which is surely one of the tastiest things in the world and beautifully cooked, generously sized pieces of marinated and braised octopus. Stunning. The Alas eu Pauca (chicken wings) Skewers (£7) were very nice as well but I’m keen to try the Corazon Mio (beef heart) next time.
We also had a couple of bigger dishes. Lomo Saltado (£13) Beef fillet, sliced flame cooked with red onions, tomatoes and chips and Amazonian Fish Patarascha (£12). The beef was as tender as you’d expect and the dish had a nice balance with the veg and crispy chips in a rich, smokey sauce. The fish was my least favourite dish, not because of the flavours but it felt a bit heavier and stodgier than the other dishes we ordered.
We shared a Lucuma Cheesecake (£5) for dessert, which I liked but tasted nothing like a cheesecake. Having never tasted Lucuma before I don’t know what it’s like on it’s own but it reminded me of green tea ice cream (if you’ve ever had that).
We really enjoyed our time at Ceviche. Plenty of new ingredients and flavours to try and pretty much everything hit the spot. The only complaint we had was that with no bread on the menu there was nothing we could order to mop up the juices from the Ceviche and Lomo Saltado and there’s only so many times you can get away with licking plates clean in restaurants…
I love the tapas style of ordering many small dishes, partly because I’m greedy but also because you get a real sense of the whole menu rather than having to pick one or two dishes. By the way, there’s also a very Pisco led cocktail menu which you should try and make your way through.
Martin Morales recently opened a sister restaurant in Shoreditch called Andina, serving breakfast as well as lunch and dinner. I’ve heard good things, it’s on the list.
Photography by Paul Winch-Furness.
|Pulpo y Chorizo Skewers||£11.00|
|Alas en Panca Skewers||£7.00|
|Amazonian Fish Patarascha||£12.00|
17 Frith Street,
London W1D 4RG